That certainly helped soften the blow of leaving. What's a mere 12 hour flight, when you'd been expecting 24? (And in the event a helpful tailwind made it much shorter - more like 10.5.) Not to mention the prospect of a playdate with Julie....
Ever been to LA? It's the second most populous city in the USA. It's also the home of film-making - famously Hollywood .. and Beverly Hills ... and Sunset Boulevard, and... Well, I had quite a check-list. Julie had booked us into the Elan hotel on Beverly Boulevard, and she didn't even know at the time that it is No 6 in the Chic and Hip Hotels list (Dorling Kindersley's 'Top 10' Los Angeles pocket guide - thoroughly recommended). We were off to a good start. From there we planned our onslaught of the city. Luckily Julie doesn't mind driving; plus she went to university there (USC), which helped.
Faced with so much choice and not quite 3 days, we drew up a list of definites and maybes. Some were easily ticked off; others took a bit longer. We didn't care. We had time to play, so play we did.
Of the two major centres of cultural excellence in LA we started with The Huntington Library, former estate of Henry E Huntington, railroad and real estate baron. A glorious house on the top of a hill overlooking the city; pretty good art collection; massive library (around 4 million rare manuscripts and books, apparently); and beautiful botanical gardens in different styles. And in spite of the 'June gloom' (which means sea mist spends most of the day covering the whole city til it burns off around 4pm) we got great blue skies from 11 am onwards, as you can see:
[The 1455 Gutenberg Bible, one of only 12 surviving copies printed on vellum]
[Huntington's Japanese Tea Garden]
[Julie hugging a Queensland kauri! Not quite as big as its Kiwi counterparts]
[One of the best 'afternoon teas' (aka lunch) I've ever had.
Think Ritz quality, only self-service - as much as you want to eat :)]
and up through the very wealthy area of Pasadena, where we admired The Gamble House, an excellent example of American Arts and Crafts architecture. It's called The Gamble House because it was originally built in 1908 for David and Mary Gamble, of Procter & Gamble Company...
Afterwards we dropped down through the historic El Pueblo de Los Angeles, where LA's oldest structures are, built between 1818 and 1926. I hadn't realised that LA used to be part of Mexico. Not surprisingly the Mexican/Spanish influence remains strong in both culture and heritage. We stopped briefly at the Old Plaza. Spanish-style music was playing and people were sitting in the midday heat, chatting and listening, or browsing the stalls.
and admired a reasonably-sized Moreton's Bay fig tree (like we have in St Heliers), yet another example, along with the Queensland Kauri, of the link between west coast USA and Australia.
Nearby the Art Deco Union Station got a quick visit:
[Wish our UK train stations were a fraction as smart, clean and comfortable
and stylish as this!]
and stylish as this!]
and the Los Angeles Memorial Colisseum, site of the 1932 Olympic games:
That was enough for one day!
The next day the June gloom was rather more prominent. Undaunted we set off for cultural extravaganza number 2 - The Getty Centre. It's quite something - mainly thousands of tons of travertine stone quarried from Italy! It sits atop one of the local hilltops, with a commanding view (when there's no mist), and took 14 years to plan and build. They actually filled in the gap between two hills to make the site work, probably by using the earth dug out to make the car park which goes does many, many floors. You can only access the site by electric tram ...
Whilst the gardens on the top level were designed by the architect, Richard Meier, and are all symmetrical and uniform, and somewhat 'cold', they got someone else in to do the lower gardens - Robert Irwin, a visual artist, not a landscape gardener at all (much to Meier's disgust). As a result the lower gardens are a delight, with running water, complementary planting schemes - and and pool with a maze in it :)
These were my particular favourite; multi-coloured bougainvillea 'umbrellas' inside metal spokes:
As for the art collection... well, it made the Huntington rooms seem rather second-rate. We only took in a small part, but there was an array of exquisite 19th and 20th century European art to rival the National Gallery. I particularly liked this Van Gogh:
Enough culture. It was time to do some serious tourist stuff. Time to see some Pretty Woman landmarks. We dropped down through...
and headed for....
Rodeo Drive is actually not as big or as impressive as I'd imagined; this is it - this short block of extremely expensive shops with the names we all recognise (which I shan't advertise here):
And then there was only one place we could go:
.... The Beverly Wilshire, where Julia Roberts accompanies Richard Gere into the famous lobby and into the famous lift.
Julie and I celebrated with a glass of pink champagne and a cheese platter :)
I haven't finished being tacky and touristy yet. With Pretty Woman under our belt it's off to Hollywood Boulevard itself. I have stars to see! Pavement ones, anyway:
My camera is at maximum zoom. I don't care. There it is; I've seen it for myself. And walking back along the road we see limos pulling up outside a venue and Billy Crystal gets out and waves to us all on the other side of the road. Star-struck? Who me? All in a day's tourism.... We head off back to our hotel, down...
Rather less salubrious than its neighbour. Definitely enough Boulevards for one day.
Our final day brings more June gloom but who cares? We have more sightseeing planned, in a different direction. Santa Monica beach here we come. It has California's oldest amusement pier, built in 1908, and has a very old carousel amongst other things; it also marks the western end of Route 66. Pity there's no blue sky as background.
and who'd have known that this is now a bona fide company?
'My momma always said, "Life was like a box of chocolates.
You never know what you're gonna get.'"
[I guess I wouldn't say no...]
Our time in LA was sadly coming to an end. But we felt we'd done justice to our 2.5 days of sightseeing. Just time for an authentic Mexican burrito in the most unassuming tiny restaurant called La Fiesta Brava on Rose Avenue in Venice. Well worth its 5* reviews. A Mexican family-run business, full of locals enjoying home-made nachos and guacamole and other delicious things. Very good value, too. Julie and I shared our lunch space with a delightful woman on her lunch hour, who shouted us a beer (from a nearby store):
I'd heard that LA had little to offer. Happy to say that from my perspective that wasn't true. I had a brilliant few days especially in the company of American Julie. First San Francisco, now Los Angeles. Where to next?
Time to say goodbye to Julie and get on the plane and back to the other life we're living....